I joined a couple tournament that have tallied up more games than I have anticipated, I have organized my games into a three game schedule, and it has taken having 60+ games from overwhelming to quite manageable, I kind of number the games like thie A2 = 2 games with players that username starts with A
A2
B6
C6
D8
E 1
F0
G1
H6
J3
K 1red
M3
N2
P8
R2
S6
T1
V6
W2
Total = 63 +1
Day1 = A-D K= 22 +1
Day 2 = E-P 24+1
Day 3 = R-Z = 15
I think this has helped me quite a bit to stay afloat right now, anyone have any other pointers?
Originally posted by HomerJSimpsonI have a formula I use when I want to deeply analyze a game. However it's also useful for burning through games quickly when I overload myself. In the latter case I apply it alone, without using my intuition as much and without letting games sit for a second look later.
I joined a couple tournament that have tallied up more games than I have anticipated, I have organized my games into a three game schedule, and it has taken having 60+ games from overwhelming to quite manageable, I kind of number the games like thie A2 = 2 games with players that username starts with A
A2
B6
C6
D8
E 1
F0
G1
H6
J3
K 1red
M3 ...[text shortened]... I think this has helped me quite a bit to stay afloat right now, anyone have any other pointers?
Originally posted by AThousandYoungcare to elaborate a little?
I have a formula I use when I want to deeply analyze a game. However it's also useful for burning through games quickly when I overload myself. In the latter case I apply it alone, without using my intuition as much and without letting games sit for a second look later.
Personally I don't deeply analyze most games on RHP, so I just burn through my games. However every once in a while I find a game I know I need to analyze. In that case, I skip the game, put a message in the notebook and move it to a folder labeled study. I only look at games in the study folder once per day (when i get up in the morning). This insures that I play lots of games, but slow down on the complicated ones.
The worst is when you've got 20 or 30 games all at the opening stage because they all start looking the same. Then I play slowly on some and fast on the ones where my opponents move frequently. That way I can break it up into more manageable chunks of games that are in the opening, middle and endgame stages. If a new tournament or clan challenge then starts, it can wait until I start eating into my timebank.
Edit: I've got 57 on the go at the moment, which is way too many for me. Bad timing.
The first thing I do is see if it's still in the opening stages such that I can move from memory.
Once I've done this, I apply the analytical method I picked up from Znosko-Borovsky's The Middle Game in Chess. He says the three elements one should examine are material, time and space.
Initially, I check material. I count the point values according to the 1-3-3-5-9 scheme. I note any material imbalances; does one person have the two Bishops and the other doesn't? That's worth a half a Pawn. Is it an opposite color Bishop situation? That suggests a drawish position. Is it a Bishop vs. Knight situation, and does the position favor either one, e.g. open center with Pawns on both sides favors Bishop, while all Pawns in one place favors the Knight. Is it a Q vs. 2R situation? Interestingly, that favors the Queen, and I know I should look for forks with her. I don't have the link handy that talks about that since I'm at work unfortunately, but a guy did a statistical study and concluded Q tends to beat 2R. Also, are the Ps symmetric on both sides or do some Ps lack opponents? This is especially important if there is an open file for both sides that separates the Pawns on one side of the board from those on the other. This will allow one or both sides to force a passed Pawn at some point. Generally you advance the Pawn which lacks an opponent. And, are there any passed Ps already on the board? Rooks go behind those; either to defend your own or to attack the enemy's passed P from behind. If I have a material advantage, I want to trade down to endgame, and if my opponent does, I want to avoid trades unless clearly beneficial to me.
Then I examine time. The way to do this is to count tempos. Look at each piece or Pawn and determine what the least number of moves it would have taken for that piece to get where it is from it's initial position. That's how many tempos that piece has. The more tempos a piece has, the more valuable it is in general, since in theory you've only have moved it when it would make your position stronger. Therefore, all else being equal, you want to exchange your low tempo pieces for your opponent's high tempo pieces and you want to avoid doing the opposite. If you have more tempos on the opponent, you want to make aggressive, forcing, attacking moves. If you have less tempos, then you want to avoid letting your opponent push you around.
A second way to analyze time is to count how many of the five crucial development moves have been made by each side. These five moves are; get Bishops and Knights off the back rank, and to get the King out from between the Rooks, preferably by castling.
The last of Z-B's elements is space. This isn't quantifiable as the other two are; at least, I haven't been able to find a good quantification method. Here's how I do it. First, I look at the board, and intuitively judge who has more space on the Kingside, the Queenside, and especially the center. Looking at where the Pawns are helps with this part of the evaluation a ton. You in general want to attack where you have more space; however, something to keep in mind is one of Nimzowich's tips - central attacks trump side attacks. Therefore, it's important to note whether the center is locked into a static formation of Pawns; and even then, it can be possible to attack the base of the opponent's side of the Pawn chain. See Nimzowitch's My System for details, or go over French Advance variation games to see what I'm talking about. Also, of course, attacks on the enemy King tend to trump flank attacks that are not against the enemy King if they both arrive at the same time.
Next, look at the sixteen squares of the large center. Look at each rank, file and diagonal that go through those squares and see who has appropriate pieces on those lines, even if Pawns are in the way. Sometimes Pawns can be moved out of the way.
Then, look at the position of both Kings. See who has pieces on the ranks, files and diagonals that point at or near the opposing King.
Once I've done the Z-B analysis, I look for Nimzowitch's elements (again, from My System). You'd really need to read that book to know what I am talking about; the elements are structures such as Pawn chains (as he defines them including Pawns from both sides), open files (again, as Nimzowitch defines them - other people sometimes call them half-open files), access to the seventh ranks, "candidate" Pawns, etc. One element I look for that I don't remember seeing in My System is what I call a "passed point"; these are squares that cannot be threatened by Pawns on either adjacent file. These are excellent places to post minor pieces, especially if they are near the middle files and the 4th-6th ranks.
Next, I look for "vulnerable pieces". These are pieces that have no defenders. I got this idea from a website; the author says he looks for pieces that have only one defender as well. I don't yet do this, but I may start at some point. This gives you some idea of where you can direct your tactics, like forks.
Once I've done all this, I figuratively step back and look at the whole position and see how all this comes together. What is the nature of the position? Have any of my analytical steps given me some idea what sort of plan I should go for?
Last, I mentally take a quick look at every possible move I can make, and then select the one that looks the best. Then, I mentally make that move, and go through every possible move my opponent can make in response. This lets me catch the really simple tactical mistakes, like dropping pieces outright. If everything looks safe up to this point, I make the move.
This looks like a lot, but most of this information is already stored in my brain. In reality it works more like this:
Material - count
Material - check for imbalances
Time - total tempos
Time - development tempos
Space - Pawns on Kingside, Queenside, Center
Space - Lines on ranks, files and diagonals through center and aimed at Kings
Nimzowith Elements
Vulnerable pieces
Look at whole position
My possible moves
Opponent's possible responses
This can all happen pretty quickly. However, if I am REALLY pressed for time, I only do the last three steps.
I burn through my games until I make an obvious mistake. Then I feel stupid and get angry with myself. So I do some work, or hang out in the forums.
On my return to the chess board I use the analyse board function for the first few games then I get cocky and move quickly again before making a big mistake. I feel stupid and sick and try to escape from this addictive computer.
If I have less than 100 games on the go I begin to suffocate and visit open invites for my next fix.
Originally posted by AThousandYoungThat's sounds like it takes a lot of time. How much time do you spend on average on one move in one game?
The last of Z-B's elements is space. This isn't quantifiable as the other two are; at least, I haven't been able to find a good quantification method. Here's how I do it. First, I look at the board, and intuitively judge who has more space on the Kingside, the Queenside, and especially the center. Looking at where the Pawns are helps with this par ...[text shortened]... However, if I am REALLY pressed for time, I only do the last three steps.
Originally posted by Sicilian SmaugYou too huh? Seem like you have it worst since you gotta pay. At our libaries it free for a hour although I think sites like redhotpawn would be blocked there.
Well i spend less than one second because you see, on here i just play for fun and never play at my real strength which is in the high 2000s. I make all my moves in 15 minutes a day at the communal internet computer in the street by the phone box, it gives me 15 minutes for 1 UK pounds which i beg for an hour to earn 🙁 apologies to all my opponents, one day il be a more prosperous begger and il have more time to think of my moves :'(
Originally posted by RahimKWell, let's find out. I'll open a game and make a move according to that system. Brb.
That's sounds like it takes a lot of time. How much time do you spend on average on one move in one game?
Done. Took me 3 minutes once I opened the game. Of course, there was almost no depth of tactical analysis beyond making sure I wouldn't immediately drop something.
Originally posted by AThousandYoungYa that sounds okay, on average I spend about that much on here and in otb per move. I do most of the stuff you talk about but not as a list. It just happens when you are staring at the position. I don't even remeber counting material on here except in tactical continuations but when I open up a game I don't count which side has how much material. I guess I don't have many games compared to you guys so i remember what is going on in each game.
Well, let's find out. I'll open a game and make a move according to that system. Brb.
Done. Took me 3 minutes once I opened the game. Of course, there was almost no depth of tactical analysis beyond making sure I wouldn't immediately drop something.