Point 2
Stalemate with the Queen
K & Q vs K & R endings are usually wins for the Queen but stalemate is an ever present threat.
Look at this position.
With black to move, can white win?
The answer in no.
1. ... Rh7+; 2. Kg2 ... Rg7+; 3. Kf3 ... Rf7+; 4. Kg4 ... Rg7+; 5. Kf5 ... Rf7+; 6. Kg6 ... Rg7+; 7. Kh6 ... Rh2+; 8. Kg6 ... Rh6+; 9. KXRh6= stalemate.
Stalemate is a common drawing theme in R v Q endings but generally only achieved if the stronger side is careless.
There are of course many other theoretical positions that you need to know so to get to 2000 get a good endgame book (or a couple) and study them.
Time for another in my list of tips.
When you are losing 9. Generate counter play. If you can't or won't you are as good as lost so you also need to 10. Know when to resign.
If a game definately lost resign it. Anything else is an insult to your opponent and a waste of energy. A game is lost when your opponent has a decisive material or strategic advantage and you cannot generate any counterplay and you know your opponent knows how to win it (and you certainly know he does if he is rated the same or higher than you and you know how to win it).
Take Game 2506569 where I carelessly played 11. ... b5?? immediately losing a pawn for no compensation. If I had been a computer I would have tried to defend this been ground down and lost but as a human I recognised my only chance was to immediately launch a K-side attack which I did from move 14 with f5 - g5 - f6 - h5 recklessly pushing the pawns in front of my king. These are not the best moves as any computer will tell you but I knew my only hope rested in an immediate, reckless, counter attack. I was soon back in the game and in fact missed at least 1 win with 26. ... f3 but there may be others.
In the end I still had winning chances but I offered a draw for reasons unconnected with chess (I am off to Las Vegas to get married in a few days and want to reduce my game load). My "reckless" moves got me back into the game but as I had nothing to lose they were my best chance.
Originally posted by Dragon FireCongrats on the wedding DF. Of course, having been married 12 years myself, I consider all marriages to be the funeral of a Bachelor 😉. Best of luck.
Time for another in my list of tips.
When you are losing [b]9. Generate counter play. If you can't or won't you are as good as lost so you also need to 10. Know when to resign.
If a game definately lost resign it. Anything else is an insult to your opponent and a waste of energy. A game is lost when your opponent has a deci less" moves got me back into the game but as I had nothing to lose they were my best chance.[/b]
Originally posted by Dragon FireGood luck with the wedding. Wish you all the best.
Time for another in my list of tips.
When you are losing [b]9. Generate counter play. If you can't or won't you are as good as lost so you also need to 10. Know when to resign.
If a game definately lost resign it. Anything else is an insult to your opponent and a waste of energy. A game is lost when your opponent has a deci ...[text shortened]... less" moves got me back into the game but as I had nothing to lose they were my best chance.[/b]
Just remember it's not all about buying books. Practice is key. Find online places to practice tactics and buy a book or two and master them before reading others.
Some prefer to read 7 books in a row, gather some scattered information and move on. Not as good as reading two books a few times over.
Previously I said that to get your grading up you should 8. Learn how to draw. but you also need to 11. Learn when to draw.
Is there a differance, well yes! You might know how to draw but when the opportunity comes up should you take the draw. Simple is you a Queen down and can take a stalemate or repitition but suppose you are a pawn or two up and your opponent has good counterplay. This is a time for careful analysis and if you can reject that draw, make an inferior move. say lose one of those pawns and still win then you should reject it.
Harder is that dead drawn position with little prospect for either side. Should you take the draw. Definately yes if your opponent is better than you, maybe if he is of similar strength (consider what is riding on the result - if a draw would take you both through to the next round of a tournament take it but if you need a win perhaps risk all by playing on). Suppose you are 100-200 points better than him (say 1900 to his 1700). Consider what do you have to lose. By drawing a few rating points but by playing on you may still draw but you should not lose - you are better than him and the better the player the better his end game. Your chances of winning are greater than his so play on?
It reminds me of a game I played OTB in 1985 or 1986 against IM Robert Wade in the 4th round of the Zimbabwe Open Chess Championship. We were both on 3 points but I was rated 400 points less than him. He was over confident in the opening and blundered a pawn (even IMs blunder) and I held it to the end game which I went into 2Bs & 3Ps vs his 2Ns and 2Ps. Ahh I should win this I hear you all say and you are right but what happened somehow those 2Ns seemed to control more of the board than my 2Bs. He picked off a pawn then swopped 2Ps leaving 2Bs & P vs 2Ns and P. In the end I had to give up a B for his final P and ended up with my B vs his 2Ns - a draw when I had been going for the win. Bob was devastating with those Knights and whilst I have lost the game score I have never forgotton the game. His endgame technique overwhelmed me and that is the biggest difference between strong and ordinary players so back tro my point, all other things being equal the stronger player when there is a 200 point rating differance is likely to overwhelm the weaker player in the end game
Originally posted by RahimKThinking of giving up the game of chess, Rahim? Hmmmm... I think I might tell you something beneficial. Don't give it up. Just take a break. Even if someone loves chess - like I do - there comes a point where you've gone far as you want to go. Like you once told me, 1800 is already in the top 15-18% of chess players, yeah? Even if you get to 1500 say, you still have a tough time in the normal every day world finding a decent match up that keeps your interest... especially without playing people who leave so many pieces en prise that you begin to yawn. How I overcome chess blue balls? Here's how I do it: I take a week off and only read about chess history. I maybe go see a movie or do something else that's fun. Not all of us can be Bobby Fischers. 🙂 Obsession can kill the best of us. Chess is Life, said Bobby. Maybe for him. But, Chess for me is just a fun game and a work of art in the same sense. Everything in moderation, remember? You got your 1800+ now, Rahim. Take a little break. Find a friend. hehe Lots of them at the library and in church. 🙂
Sounds like a great idea but i'm seriously debating giving chess up. Not going very well and my heads still not in it.
It is some time since I started this thread and at last it is nearing its end. I hope the contents have been useful and so far I have failed to break through that 2000 barrier although I got up to 1956 before dropping back a little. Of course if I had followed tip 6 I would be there by now (you will have to read the thread to find this tip).
I would also be there if I had followed my last tip but, so far, this tip I have singularly failed to follow. In my opinion this is one of the most important things you need to do if you want to get above 2000 and stay there. So 12. Study and analyse your opponents games.. Before you even start the game look at his recent games to determine what openings he plays and what lines in those openings. This way you can force him down lines that you are more familiar with and better than him. Analyse his games in your choosen lines and find improvements. If you have not yet started the games then you can use all tools available to you including engines but once started make sure you stick to the TOS. How much time should you spend on this - a few hours as a very minimum probably more and the stronger your opponent the more preparation time you need to spend.
OK if you are 1900 and your opponent is 1500 or even 1700/1800 and you have got there without doing this you can probably avoid but if you are 1950 and your opponent is 2200 you most certainly cannot avoid it. You need at least 1 draw from every 2 games against such opponents and without adequate preparation you will fail.
No one ever said getting to 2000 was easy it isn't. It is hard work but reduce your game load and spend that extra time on preparation. It will be worth it
Of course there is an easy way Thread 56271 to increase your grade by 200% to 500% but if you believe that you have no chance of ever getting there.
Originally posted by Dragon FireCould you post that game's moves here. I'd love to see it.
It reminds me of a game I played OTB in 1985 or 1986 against IM Robert Wade in the 4th round of the Zimbabwe Open Chess Championship.[/i].
Is there a differance, well yes! You might know how to draw but when the opportunity comes up should you take the draw. Simple is you a Queen down and can take a stalemate or repitition but suppose you s a 200 point rating differance is likely to overwhelm the weaker player in the end game[/b][/i][/b]
Cheers,
Mathurine 🙂
Originally posted by AmauroteThere is already a how to get to 2000 here and blitz/rapid. Just take your foot of the accelerator before you hit 2000.
These are good threads, but some of us don't have the time or inclination for a ceiling as high as 2000 - personally I'd retire happy if I could stabilize my rating at just over 1800...how about a thread from you on that?